Mix & Match Sorbetto Top (Colette Patterns)

Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Sorbetto Top with Gathered Sleeves, Front
As a practice run for a more complex top, I put together a muslin and a wearable muslin of the Sorbetto Top from Colette Patterns (free!) in Maywood Studio's Modern Monet Poppies in purple and Michael Miller Mirror Ball Dot in platinum. My one mistake was using mid-weight cotton fabric instead of lightweight, as recommended. A fabric with more drape would have more shape. As it is, I think potato sacks have more drape.

Fit - Sizing
I did a size 2 in the bust, a 6 in the hips, and an 18 in length by just hand-drawing connections between the different grades. I also ended up cutting 1/2" off of the bottom of each armscye as the armholes tend to be rather restricting on this pattern.

Fit - Bust Darts
After making my first muslin, I realized that I'd want to shorten the bust darts about an inch, so that they would undershoot the bust apex.

Sorbetto Top with Gathered Sleeves, Back

Fit - Back Darts
My first muslin fit okay in the back, but when I made this wearable muslin it was ballooning intensely in the back. I noticed that when I flexed my back I still needed most of the space, so I just put in some darts at the top of the neck to reduce the ballooning a bit. I think for next time, it might be worthwhile to size down the shoulder area somehow.

Construction - Pleat-lessness
This is a pleatless Sorbetto which is accomplished easily enough with Colette Pattern's instructions for removing the Sorbetto pleat. It also lets you use less fabric, which is good because I think I only had a yard.

Construction - Bias Tape
Following the instructions from No Big Dill, I made bias tape, and then realized it was too small for the bias tape maker I had. So, I just faked bias tape with my hands and an iron and then used Cal Patch's bias tape facing tutorial on CraftStylish instead of the recommended exposed bias tape facing.

Sorbetto Top with Gathered Sleeves, Front Sorbetto Top with Gathered Sleeves, Inside Out

Construction - Sleeves
Using the sleeves pattern from Sew Incidentally and modifying the sleeve with gathers like how the Seasoned Homemaker described, I added sleeves. A sleeved Sorbetto!

Construction - Finishing
I finished the rough edges mostly in French Seams, when I remembered to. Maybe next time I'll remember to do French Seams on the sleeves.

Sorbetto Top with Gathered Sleeves, Side

10 comments:

rooth said...

Iris - it really looks wonderful and the back is particularly tailored looking

Krysten @ Why Girls Are Weird said...

Oh I like a lot, it looks great!

indie by heart said...

Cute top ! Especially love the floral pattern, I'm into them right now :D

Thanks for the comment! x

Satu
Indie by heart

Marlen said...

god i wish i knew how to sew like that! i LOVE the pattern mixing, and the sleeves are especially cute

Jamie said...

It looks amazing - makes me wish I'd ever learned to sew

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Jessica said...

love the pattern mix!

Jessica
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Laura said...

such a lovely top! i miss sewing so much, wish i had my sewing machine with me at uni! x

binelectric said...

This looks really beautiful. Thanks for the link to the pattern, I just downloaded it.
And thanks for your comment on my blog!

patsijean said...

This top is really cute and the fit is salvageable. A mid-weight cotton can handle darts. The fit in the back is fine but the front needs a bit more shape. I would pick out the hem in the front and insert a fisheye dart, extending it through the hem. Start the dart about 1-1/2 inch below the bust, widening to no more than 1/2" (taking out a total of 1" per dart) a little above the natural waist, and tapering back in to about 1/4" about 2" above the hem and stitching straight down from there. Pin baste to see if you need to take more out. This won't take more than an hour, if that, and will be worth it as the top and fabric are really cute!

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